When we arrived in Bawiti, we only got to see the town from the bus because we were actually dropped off near the edge of town closer to the Bahariyya Oasis. What I saw of the town was totally great. It was green with palm trees and flowering plants, irrigated from the fresh water of the oasis. We passed by a humble mosque during prayer and it was filled with pious men and boys. All remaining space outside was also covered with prayer mats and bowing bodies. The younger boys couldn’t help but to glance at the approaching bus and I was sorry we broke their meditation.

There was a mob of guys who worked for desert safari outfitters waiting to pounce as soon as our feet hit the ground at the bus station. Luckily Jeff had called ahead and arranged our guide and he was there to rescue us from the confusing mob. We jumped in the back of his Toyota land cruiser and bounced towards the first camp just on the outskirts of town. Badr, the owner/operator of the tour company, greeted us. He was dressed in a traditional blue galabiyya that matched his striking blue eyes. We had a lunch of pasta and cucumbers and tea. Before we had a second to catch our breath, we were back in the truck and heading for the Black Desert.

About 50km south of Bawiti the desert floor turns from beige to black. It was formed through the ages as wind eroded the mountains and spread a fine black powder over the ground that makes the area famous. A fault line cuts through the desert and the mountains (hills, really) that were created by it stand tall against the empty expanse. We stopped to climb one of the taller mountains, but I only went half way and let the others ahead. I didn’t want to talk or take photos, I just wanted to meditate and soak in the surroundings. I found a nice spot to sit and stare over the hills, relaxing in the first peaceful state of mind I’ve experienced in Egypt.
 
From there we headed further south into the White Desert towards Farafra. The change from black to white was incredible. While the Black Desert was brown and black dotted with the occasional hill, the White Desert was stark white with huge stalactite-type formations that had been sculpted by the wind and sand. You could stare at each formation and see objects in the shapes, like when you look at the clouds and see the shape of something tangible. My meditative state only intensified when we were able to stop and wander around. The silence was deafening and the landscape celestial. I will forever remember the peace I experienced there.